Qarabaghi Mafrash
Azerbaijan

12

 

This apparently unused bedding bag or mafrash1 is typical of those thought to have been woven by nomads in Qarabagh. These people, known variously as Terekemeh or Elat2, were active as late as 1976, as evidenced by photos from that time in a private Baku collection showing applique felt decorated ahlachik (nomad yurts).

It is probable that considerably more sumakh bags were woven by Transcaucasian nomads than is popularly thought, in part based on the 12,000-piece collection of Azeri bags and other textiles preserved in the Baku Carpet Museum.

This mafrash has all the original goathair “handles” sewn onto the edges of the bag. For exhibition purposes, it is shown upside down. In use, it would have rested on its striped underside at the back of, or along the interior sides of, an ahlachik or kume3, filled during the day with folded bedding and serving as a back rest. During migrations, pairs of mafrash would have been strapped onto camels, one on each side. In transit, the bedding would have been covered with a jajim (cover cloth) to keep out dust, held in place by the heavy braided black and ivory wool cord seen lying on top of the inverted mafrash in the image. To hold the jajim in place, the cord would have been looped back and forth between the goathair handles and tied securely. These cords almost never survive attached to mafrash in Western collections, but there are several such in the Carpet Museum in Baku, in the Republic of Azerbaijan.

Qarabagh mafrash are heavier and a bit less delicate in design than those from neighboring Iranian Azarbayjan, and they use cotton more often than ivory wool for white sumakh patterning.

RET

1) Mafrash (a Farsi word) are also referred to as farmesh, the Turki term used by the anthropologist Richard Tapper, who has years of fieldwork experience among the Azarbayjani nomads.

2) From conversations in Baku with Dr. Kubra Aliyeva, of the Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences, Institute of Architecture and Art, in May, 2003.

3) Ahlachik are round, cold weather-resistant, felt-covered, dome-shaped dwellings used by nomads in the Transcaucasus and northern Azarbayjan, while kume are smaller, less complex and oblong.

  

Additional Images

 

End

Side

Detail 1

   

Detail 2

Detail 3

 
    
 

Structural Data:

Size:

(bottom panel) 3’ 3” x 1’ 6”  (99 x 46 cm.)

Warp:

Ivory wool, Z2S

Selvages:

Plain

Joins:

Vari-colored wool, plait stitch, Z2S

Hair Loops:

Dark brown hair, Z2S. They appear to have been added after weaving as the flatweave area is stretched tightly around the point of their insertion.  However, they do not puncture the warps or wefts. They could have been attached with a hook. There is no other hair used in the bag.

Long Cord:

Ivory and black wool, Z2S, braided and knotted onto one of the loops. Dissimilar color and diameter from that used in rest of bag

Sides & Ends

Ground
Weft:

 Ivory wool, Z2S, and ivory wool & blue wool, Z2S; and cochineal wool, Z2S; and dark brown wool, Z2S; one per row; 20 rows per vertical inch
 

Pattern
Weft
:

Balanced and countered sumakh, Z2S wool; and Z6S white cotton, machine spun

Bottom Panel

 

Balanced plain weave, dark blue wool stripes between dark brown wool, Z2S; folded over and sewn overcast with dark brown wool, Z2S

   

Online Exhibition:

To Have and To Hold


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© 2004, New England Rug Society, All Rights Reserved