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These little purses were
made to hold small personal items owned by Uzbek women. The careful
framing of one principal motif on each side, quadri-lobed medallion,
boteh (buta) or elaborate flower whence issues botehs gives
reasonable evidence for the likelihood that these were purpose-made.
Their decoration closely resembles that employed in series on many
cross-stitch belts of the period. The two more complete examples
have upper borders, one with the common “S” motifs, the other
somewhat more complicated, and nicely braided handles and fine
little tassles, so they seem very unlikely to have been fashioned as
the result of a unified conception. The tassles are an almost
universal embellishment to fancy Uzbek bags and trappings. Where not
present (as in plate 42b), they have probably fallen off.
As is described in the text for plate 42a, all Central Asian women
had need of little bags to contain small personal objects or tea or
the like, but whereas the Lakai piece was created in a nomadic or
village context, these were almost certainly of urban manufacture
and undertaken by professional embroiderers rather than as a part of
the repertoire of domestic skills each properly trained young Lakai
woman would bring to her marriage. JBS |
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Structural Data (upper right): |
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Size:
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5 3/4” x 4 1/2” (14.6 x 11.4 cm.)
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Foundation:
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Balanced plain weave, 44 horizontal by 44 vertical inch, cotton, Z
spun
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Design:
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Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads, with wool, lightly Z
spun; the ‘madder’ red is wool, Z2S, mostly corroded.
Needlepoint cross-stitching is contiguous front to back along bottom
fold of bag. Edges are overcast sewn with dark blue Z spun wool and
strengthened with a machine spun black cotton thread, Z3S. This same
black cotton thread is used in an attached ‘strap’ which penetrates
the balanced plain weave fabric covering the raw edges of the
needlework bag. The same black thread is again used at the top to
hold on the rayon balanced plain weave fabric on the raw edges of
the needlepoint. This stitching appears to have been sewn by
machine, perhaps a simple device, rendering a reciprocal stitch.
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Lining:
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Fuchsia colored cotton balanced plain weave fabric (also sewn on
with the black cotton Z3S thread.)
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Structural Data (center): |
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Size:
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5 1/2” x 4” (14 x 10.2 cm.)
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Foundation:
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Balanced plain weave, handspun fine cotton, Z spun, 28 vertical by
36 horizontal inch
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Design:
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Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads, with fine wool, Z2S.
Needlepoint cross-stitching is contiguous front to back along bottom
fold of pouch. Edges are overcast sewn with Z2S cochineal colored
wool and with Z2S dark blue/green wool.
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Top of
Pouch: |
Twenty strand chain-stitch plait at top, Z2S
wool in dark blue/green, ivory and cochineal.
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Lining:
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(only top inside half of pouch)
Balanced plain weave, red cotton, overcast sewn to pouch with Z2S
dark blue/green wool. |
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Carrying Strap: |
A flat 22 plaited strap of cochineal, ivory and purple wool, Z2
lightly spun S, is sewn to the top inside corner of the pouch with S
spun light purple wool.
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Draw Cord: |
Two 8 plaited straps are inserted into the
needlepoint, used for drawing the bag closed. These straps are
cochineal colored wool, Z2 lightly spun S.
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Tassels: |
Tassels of fine Z2S dark blue wool with
plied-loop fringe, and small blue glass beads at the tips decorate
the ends of the braid. Additionally, small metal beads, woven red
wool spheres and wrapped metal thread encircle the braid above the
tassels.
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Structural Data (lower
left): |
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Size:
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5” x 3 3/4” (12.7 x 9.5 cm.)
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Foundation:
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Balanced plain weave, cotton, Z spun, 32 horizontal by 28 vertical
inch
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Design:
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Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads wool, Z2 lightly spun S,
the ‘madder’ red is corroded.
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Top of
Pouch:
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On one side there is a balanced plain weave of blue-wefted,
ivory-warped fabric; on other side is an ivory warp and weft
balanced plain weave fabric which has been partially dyed light red.
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Braid at
Top Edge: |
18 plait black wool, Z2S and white cotton,
6S, and S spun green wool, attached with Z2S black wool.
Pouch sewn together along sides with S spun pink and S spun
cochineal colored wool.
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Carrying
Strap: |
24 plait of white cotton, 8 ply, S spun,
dark blue/gray cotton, 6 ply S spun and blue wool, S spun. Strap is
sewn onto bag with S spun pink wool and with dark blue/gray cotton,
6 ply S spun. |
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Draw Cord: |
13 plait light pink S spun wool |
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Tassels: |
Tassels at end of draw cord and at three
points at bottom of pouch are S spun blue wool with plied loop
fringe. Two of the tassels are on a core cord of dark blue/gray
cotton, 6 ply S spun and cochineal colored wool, Z2S. The third is
on a core cord of 6 S spun white cotton, Z2S white wool and Z2S
cochineal colored wool. The tassels are bound with Z2S green wool, Z
spun ivory wool overwrapped with Z spun light brown wool, and the
tassel ‘heads’ are decorated with pink, ivory and yellow Z2 lightly
spun S wool. |
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Copyright
©
2004,
New England Rug Society,
All Rights Reserved |
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