Three Uzbek Khalta
Central Asia

 

40

 

These little purses were made to hold small personal items owned by Uzbek women. The careful framing of one principal motif on each side, quadri-lobed medallion, boteh (buta) or elaborate flower whence issues botehs gives reasonable evidence for the likelihood that these were purpose-made. Their decoration closely resembles that employed in series on many cross-stitch belts of the period. The two more complete examples have upper borders, one with the common “S” motifs, the other somewhat more complicated, and nicely braided handles and fine little tassles, so they seem very unlikely to have been fashioned as the result of a unified conception. The tassles are an almost universal embellishment to fancy Uzbek bags and trappings. Where not present (as in plate 42b), they have probably fallen off.

As is described in the text for plate 42a, all Central Asian women had need of little bags to contain small personal objects or tea or the like, but whereas the Lakai piece was created in a nomadic or village context, these were almost certainly of urban manufacture and undertaken by professional embroiderers rather than as a part of the repertoire of domestic skills each properly trained young Lakai woman would bring to her marriage.

JBS

  

Additional Image

 

Backs

Detail

 
    
 

Structural Data (upper right):

Size:

5 3/4” x 4 1/2”  (14.6 x 11.4 cm.)

Foundation:

Balanced plain weave, 44 horizontal by 44 vertical inch, cotton, Z spun

Design:

Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads, with wool, lightly Z spun; the ‘madder’ red is wool, Z2S, mostly corroded.
Needlepoint cross-stitching is contiguous front to back along bottom fold of bag. Edges are overcast sewn with dark blue Z spun wool and strengthened with a machine spun black cotton thread, Z3S. This same black cotton thread is used in an attached ‘strap’ which penetrates the balanced plain weave fabric covering the raw edges of the needlework bag. The same black thread is again used at the top to hold on the rayon balanced plain weave fabric on the raw edges of the needlepoint. This stitching appears to have been sewn by machine, perhaps a simple device, rendering a reciprocal stitch.

Lining:

Fuchsia colored cotton balanced plain weave fabric (also sewn on with the black cotton Z3S thread.)

 

Structural Data (center):

Size:

5 1/2” x 4” (14 x 10.2 cm.)

Foundation:

Balanced plain weave, handspun fine cotton, Z spun, 28 vertical by 36 horizontal inch

Design:

Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads, with fine wool, Z2S. Needlepoint cross-stitching is contiguous front to back along bottom fold of pouch. Edges are overcast sewn with Z2S cochineal colored wool and with Z2S dark blue/green wool.

Top of
 Pouch:

Twenty strand chain-stitch plait at top, Z2S wool in dark blue/green, ivory and cochineal.

Lining:

(only top inside half of pouch)
Balanced plain weave, red cotton, overcast sewn to pouch with Z2S dark blue/green wool.

Carrying Strap:

A flat 22 plaited strap of cochineal, ivory and purple wool, Z2 lightly spun S, is sewn to the top inside corner of the pouch with S spun light purple wool.

Draw Cord:

Two 8 plaited straps are inserted into the needlepoint, used for drawing the bag closed. These straps are cochineal colored wool, Z2 lightly spun S.

Tassels:

Tassels of fine Z2S dark blue wool with plied-loop fringe, and small blue glass beads at the tips decorate the ends of the braid. Additionally, small metal beads, woven red wool spheres and wrapped metal thread encircle the braid above the tassels.

 

Structural Data (lower left):

Size:

5” x 3 3/4” (12.7 x 9.5 cm.)

Foundation:

Balanced plain weave, cotton, Z spun, 32 horizontal by 28 vertical inch

Design:

Cross-stitch, 2 over 2 foundation threads wool, Z2 lightly spun S, the ‘madder’ red is corroded.

Top of
Pouch
:

On one side there is a balanced plain weave of blue-wefted, ivory-warped fabric; on other side is an ivory warp and weft balanced plain weave fabric which has been partially dyed light red.

Braid at
Top Edge:

18 plait black wool, Z2S and white cotton, 6S, and S spun green wool, attached with Z2S black wool.
Pouch sewn together along sides with S spun pink and S spun cochineal colored wool.

Carrying
Strap:

24 plait of white cotton, 8 ply, S spun, dark blue/gray cotton, 6 ply S spun and blue wool, S spun. Strap is sewn onto bag with S spun pink wool and with dark blue/gray cotton, 6 ply S spun.

Draw Cord:

13 plait light pink S spun wool

Tassels:

Tassels at end of draw cord and at three points at bottom of pouch are S spun blue wool with plied loop fringe. Two of the tassels are on a core cord of dark blue/gray cotton, 6 ply S spun and cochineal colored wool, Z2S. The third is on a core cord of 6 S spun white cotton, Z2S white wool and Z2S cochineal colored wool. The tassels are bound with Z2S green wool, Z spun ivory wool overwrapped with Z spun light brown wool, and the tassel ‘heads’ are decorated with pink, ivory and yellow Z2 lightly spun S wool.

 

   

Online Exhibition:

To Have and To Hold


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